Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Gundam Wing Zero Custom 1/100 scale Master Grade

Pre-build to post-build (3 days of progress). It's my first time to assemble a Master Grade. Kind of easy yet challenging especially on the panel lines. I had fun constructing this bad boy compared to my previous HG ones. 





  
Tools needed:






-Sprue cutter
-Knife cutter
-Tweezers
-Sandpaper (400-600) grit
-Gundam Marker GM01 or GM02 for panel lines.
-Gundam Weathering marker
-Eraser


Building flowchart/steps:

-primer (if you want to paint the plates/runner)

-base coat (if you want to paint the plates/runner)

-cut and clean the parts.

-panel line

-detail (weathering)

-decals

-production

-top coat


I did the "lazy method" according to dannychoo's tutorial on this one because I don't have enough time to cut and clean the individual pieces and paint it one by one. So what I did is I just spray all the runner with primer first, then the base coat. Here's how it looks after spraying the primer.




I decided to paint just the blue part of it, the original color is too dark for my preference so I bought a Tamiya spray can which is the TS-44 (Brilliant Blue) and a Tamiya gray primer. As you can see below, It's already replaced by a different shade of blue. I'm impressed by the curing time of the Tamiya spray paints. It's already dried after 40 mins of spraying and left it for about a couple of hours just to make sure it's completely dried. But I prefer a full 24 hours of curing time to get the best results. (if you can wait) :D 





After the paint is completely dry, I already began to build it as I carefully follow the instructions included in the kit. I already put the panel lines as I build each sections. Trust me, it's much more easier to draw the lines while the piece is still on the runner or just after cutting it. 1 section alone together with the cleaning and putting the panel lines on the piece took me like 1-2 hours of building. It's pretty tiring but worth it.



If you accidentally draw unnecessary lines outside of the grooves, don't panic. that's where the eraser do it's job. Just simply erase the unwanted lines and VOILA! you're problem is over. Gundam Markers Ink can be easily erased by a pencil eraser that's why I recommend to use it instead of sharpies or any other marker.

I didn't used the weathering marker for this kit, for some reason it is very difficult to put weathering on it. It's either too much and they dry fast! It ruined my kit. But luckily I use Isopropyl Alcohol to remove it. and probably switching over to a pastel one like Tamiya.

The only downside on painting while the pieces are still on the runners, is that when you cut between the gate and pieces from the runner, the nub marks will reveal the original color of it. If that happens, you will have to sand it down to make it even and repaint the whole piece again which is a pain in the butt and time consuming as well.






 
Be careful on applying the dry decals. Make sure you taped it first with a ordinary invisible tape or masking tape on the desired section then apply pressure to it evenly until you see the decals are transferred to the plastic. Otherwise you're gonna mess up and cry. 


After several tiring hours of building I managed to get it done. and sprayed a top coat (matte) on it to give a realistic mobile suit look.  I am really satisfied after I saw the final production. His wings are pretty awesome. A huge kudos to Bandai for this one, engineering was outstanding. It looks pretty difficult at first because it has a lot of parts and pieces. But every penny is totally worth it.










That's about it. As of now I am currently working on Gundam Deathscythe Hell. I will use a different approach/method this time, and it will take a longer process to build compared to my wing zero custom. Anyway, I'll keep you guys updated.


1 comment:

  1. i just need to ask what kind of gundam markers do you use for wing zero custom i bought the hg version which is on the way and i wanted to know how to paint on certain parts the color i need

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